Darts in the Back

Not the kind you throw, but the kind you sew.

For years, men’s clothes have trended towards fitted, rather than loose. However, if you’ve kept an eye on style trends, you’ll notice that in some fashion circles, larger, free-flowing shirts and jackets are starting to find their way back into retailers. Personally, I’m not a fan of the look. IMHO, a man’s shirt or jacket should always be well fitted. If you work hard to keep in shape, you’ll want to show off your best asset; your fit and trim body. That’s where darts come in. Darts make a shirt or jacket contour your body, leaving a svelte image.

I’ve said before that men should always have their clothes tailored. It is not often that you can pick up a shirt off-the-rack and have it fit you well. It is just too challenging to find a well-constructed shirt that fits great in all the right places. The fortunate thing about darting is that it is not a challenging enhancement for shirts. I’ve experimented with a sewing machine and was able to dart some test fabric with ease, but I wasn’t quite willing to take the next step to sacrifice an expensive shirt to my kill set. I’m considering a trip to Goodwill to buy some cheap shirts so I can try my skill, but admitteldy, I am a little weary of the idea and usually just run my shirts to a tailor. Generally, I’ll pay about $20 a shirt for professional darting. A tailor will mark or pin your shirt, then run a single dart down each flank; widening the dart in the middle for a slimmer, more tailored fit. It is often cheaper than having a custom shirt made, so take that into consideration the next time you’re out shopping.

For those in Austin, here are a few personal notes about tailors that I am familiar with. Ask your friends for references, because sometimes you can find a person who does tailoring as a side business and they are most always less expensive than a professional shop.

Oliva Tailors
3513 Jefferson St Austin, TX 78731
(512) 454-2525
Sleeves – 20, Sides $20-30

Sasa Esquivel, mother of Daniel Esquivel, the fashion designer. She works out of her home in South Austin.
(512) 441-2287

Alex, he works out of a studio in his apartment near S. Lamar on Manchaca.
(512) 703-7445
Sleeves 25, Sides 25

Art Alterations on South Lamar (just north of Ben White)
3720 S Congress Ave, Austin, TX 78704
(512) 448-9996
Sleeves 26.50, Sides 48.50

My Cleaners & Alterations
3100 Guadalupe St Austin, TX 78705
(512) 465-9500
Sleeves 32, Sides 32

Hope Tailor Shop
4315 S 1st St, Austin, TX 78745
(512) 447-4673
Sleeves 34, Sides 43

Marfiels Alterations has been around for a long time. She isn’t quick, but she is very good.
2703 E Cesar Chavez St, Austin, TX 78702
(512) 478-3639
Sleeves 30, Sides 35-55

Austin Alterations
700 N Lamar
(512) 276-7474
Sleeves 35, Sides 40-55

Lee’s
718 Brazos
(512) 480-0046
Sleeves 28, Sides 30

I don’t recommend Fine Stitch as I have had a bad experience with her.
Ace Tailors is ridiculously expensive (I expect they have to charge a lot to pay for the expensive real estate they occupy).

Keep it classy!